Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Culp's Hill - Spangler's Spring Area July 2, 2012

Welcome to Gettysburg Local! The purpose of this blog is to bring a different point of view to the Gettysburg visitor and provide a glimpse into the lives of those of us who live near the Gettysburg Military Park.
Today's post is about an area near to my heart that also gives me the "zero at the bone" that Emily Dickinson refers to. I walk often along the road, East Confederate Avenue, from Spangler's Spring back to East Middle Street. For many locals, this is the perfect place for jogging, walking, exercising the dogs, and biking. Occasionally a Segway tour cruises by in a quiet hum.Parking is available in several places, most notably by Spangler's Spring. From the spring, one can walk uphill to Culp's Hill, or back along the road which parallels Rock Creek. The creek is obscured from view for most of the road. At one time, apparently, there was a path along the edge of Rock Creek because a fence is still there.
July 2 was a time of heavy fighting, and I walked there thinking of the men who fought and died at this place. Monuments to Steuart's Brigade CSA, Walker's Brigade, CSA and the 28th Pennsylvania Infantry lie along my usual path.
Yesterday I went back to the 28th PA Infantry monument because I am drawn to that spot. I'm not a "ghost hunter;" I walk at the battlefield all the time and don't hear voices; ectoplasm doesn't emerge from the bushes when I'm around. However, there is something poignantly haunting about the little path that leads to the 28th Infantry monument. The monument is in the shape of a knapsack, which might not be readily apparent, but the careful roll at the top is designed to make us think of the things they carried in that long ago war.  A shagbark hickory tree stands vigil, and poison ivy slithers along the ground and climbs the trunks of trees, shiny and sinister. Deer tracks often mark the muddy places along the path, and the rustling in the brush is apt to be a gray squirrel that I have disturbed. But there is something else...perhaps someone else.
Every time I visit -- fall, winter, spring, summer -- a presence of some kind reaches out to me. At this place I am watched; on both sides of the path there is a palpable presence.

I now know that this was contested ground, Steuart's Brigade had crossed Rock Creek near here, and the 28th Infantry served as "skirmishers" in these woods. Skirmishers are sent ahead of the larger group to engage the enemy and ascertain enemy positions. Taking the hill was the goal of the CSA troops; defending the hill was the sacred charge of the 28th and other Union troops. Here, in this forest on a day just as muggy, just as hot, the firing of weapons blasted leaves and twigs off trees, filled the air with smoke and noise.  Here some lived and some died. Who is it whose compelling story drives them to remain in this place? What sorrow or betrayal took place in this grove? I walk and I wonder. The thrushes call from the hill and from the low places back and forth. Did the men of the 28th pick the leaves from the spicebush trees and crush them as I do  for their lemony scent?
I keep going back and researching these men and their struggle. I have read the primary source accounts which capture the passion and despair. These words are from McKim, of Steuart's CSA brigade:

  Still we pressed on. General Steuart, Captain Williamson, and I were all on the right-centre, where was the Second Maryland and eight men of the Third North Carolina. Oh! it was a gallant band. We had our sabres drawn, and were cheering on the men, but there was little need of it. Their gallantry did not avail, and their noble blood was spilled in vain. . . . It was as if the sickle of Death had passed along the line and mown down the noblest and the bravest. Major Goldsborough fell [as we supposed], mortally wounded. That brave officer and noble gentleman, Captain Murray, fell dead. Friends dropped all around me, and lay writhing on the ground..
 http://www.gdg.org/Research/SHSP/shmckims.html

I will return, again and again, to honor those who fought and mourn those who died, to listen to the call of the cardinal and the blessed silence of peace that now prevails beneath Culp's Hill.


http://www.drawthesword.goellnitz.org/2007/11/28th-pennsylvania-infantry/

Addendum: Watching a ranger presentation on PCN the evening of July 4, 2012 proved instructive. When I talked to my daughters about the feeling I perceived, I repeatedly used the word "betrayal." Tonight I discovered that in the darkness, the 1st Maryland was actually fired upon by their own men. After crossing Rock Creek, in the darkness, the NC brigade came along a bit later. They began firing at other members of Steuart's Brigade.  The term the ranger used was actually fratricide, which seems so very sad. Perhaps I feel some of those who were struck by friendly fire trying to tell me what happened to them.


If you go: From  the square (Route 30.Baltimore St/ Carlisle Street/) proceed NORTH on Baltimore Street one block. Turn left onto EAST MIDDLE STREET. E. Middle is one of our annoying streets with 4 way stops at each corner. Go about two blocks and turn RIGHT onto East Confederate Avenue. (one way street) Follow the road to Spangler's Spring; park and walk back along E. Confederate Ave. to the Steuart's Brigade bronze plaque on the right side of the roadway. The 28th Infantry position monument is along the winding, often muddy trail.









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